“These New Caroleans” turned British traditions on their head.
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Scotland’s fashion darling Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY is back in his home from home, Milan. In stark contrast to Fall/Winter 2023, the London-based designer’s Spring/Summer 2024 show was set in a white-walled warehouse, eschewing entertainment factors and theatricals for a purer fashion focus.
Titled “These New Caroleans,” SS24 spoke on new eras and old, revealing the codes to what made Britain great — and where, over the years, they got lost. Per the brand, “These New Caroleans is a manifesto, a sartorial statement of intent. It is a coronation turned on its head, in which everyone gets to wear the crown. This season, Charles Jeffrey wipes the slate clean before scrawling it anew with a message of hope.”
In order to do so, the designer promised much more than just the expected House cues. Sure, tartan was there, but it wasn’t abundant. Instead, it was delicately used to highlight the more traditional elements of the collection, such as kilts, jackets with doilie-like spread collars, and armor.
Fighting battles seems to be one of the seasonal themes, as LOVERBOY followed in the footsteps of ERL’s Pitti Uomo show with a number of knightly uniforms and accessories. Shields and gloves adorned, the designer made way for the introduction of his Wedgwood collaboration, decorating dresses inspired by the 1660s and dystopian outfits comprising helmets and suits of armor clad in pre-loved Wedgwood ceramics.
These twists appeared time and time again — Great British icons like the Macintosh coat were drenched in neon, while a classic floral print was engineered using artificial intelligence, creating a haphazard and intricate design better than we humans ever could.
Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY ultimately tore down Britishisms in a collection that, quite oxymoronically, paid both homage to and questioned the things that have recently defined the UK. Think of the King’s Coronation, the Queen’s death, unity met with all-time-high disparity and distance, culture clashes and class system struggles all coming together for a monstrous LOVERBOY day out.
It was rebellious and camp, everything the designer stands for. Sportswear paired with monster-clawed shoes, and pleated kilts covered in blue sequins paired with customized Umbro footwear, shouldn’t fit in the same collection. But they did, and together, SS24 explored a more informed side of the designer, set to become known for always keeping us on our toes.
Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY SS24 can be seen in the gallery above.