Spring/Summer 2024 saw the subversive house play on high-fashion, double-denim, and deconstruct it all with a Queer cultural identity.
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For Florentin Glémarec and Kevin Nompeix, EGONlab. is an experimental playground that aims to decode menswear traditions and subvert everything you know and love.
For Spring/Summer 2024, this took a turn none of us could expect, kicking the show off with an IMAX theater opening sound before debuting a riff on high fashion and the society it speaks to. Glowing yellow stadium lights set the stage behind the models who were tightly wrapped in kinky black uniforms à la Saint Laurent; suit jackets that finished below the nipples with a straight line, off-the-shoulder sweetheart neckline corset jackets, satin wraps covering just the necessities, all worked alongside more subdued — but still intriguing — silhouettes.
For example, the classic black double-breasted suit was cut and re-attached, thus creating an elongated torso. On the flip side, others were decorated with detachable skirts wrapped around the top of trousers, much like a cummerbund. This detail was later translated into denim, where the cheeky nods to referencing familiar brands and subverting it under the Queer cultural lens exploded exponentially.
Enter EGONlab.’s play on the Canadian Tuxedo, a certain household denim name, and denim as an entire masculine construct. Instead of jeans as you know them, the brand delivered coated ones, super-low slung iterations, and skirt variants, and paired this with trucker jackets and trousers that found the waistband in the wrong area, or again, cropped.
Detail is everything when the point is to have fun, and EGONlab. nailed that. Whether it was the secret bumsters that were revealed among a tuxedo, glamorous fur jackets that went on to dictate collars on various other coats, or the undressing of jeans, tank tops, and suit pants that revealed just enough skin to keep things PC, there really were no stones left unturned this season.
It’s a different direction for the brand; slightly altered towards a life of opulence and grandeur in its more traditional sense (if you’re in on the joke, that is). We, along with the rest of the showgoers, are into it.