Luca Magliano uses restrained chaos and deconstruction to tell stories of struggles, prayers, and epigraphs.
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Luca Magliano‘s eponymous brand has just held its largest Milan Fashion Week show to date, and for Spring/Summer 2024, the LVMH Prize-winning designer took Magliano into the depths of wretched couture.
For the designer, SS24 was about giving back to those who supported him throughout his emerging years. Previously, shows were held in warehouses and other derelict buildings, often filled with randomized chairs and a smaller crowd. No conventional runway in sight.
However today, at “Palamagliano,” there was an elevated runway offering hundreds of showgoers a complete men’s and womenswear collection. It drew on prayers, epigraphs and thanksgiving, treating clothes like “talismans because of the events that have occurred.”
This wasn’t just distressed clothing. It was far more intelligent than that. Instead, we saw trousers that had waistbands upon waistbands, folded and cut to create disheveled shapes. Tank tops were layered atop one another, bomber jackets were skewed on the model, crushed velvet shirs were loose and aloof, and there was even a model holding a lit cigarette dressed in a nightgown, as if he’s just woken up for his morning smoke.
Magliano painted a picture, to bounce back from the struggles. Prison overalls were cinched and tailored to subvert their controversial connotations, and in contrast, suit jackets were oversized to new experimental proportions, decoding formalities. It all paired with Magliano’s latest footwear range, from sneakers informed by 2000s European trends to hiking boots and the second season of the U-Power Anti-Hardslip collaboration.
For SS24, the devil was in the detail. As tank tops twisted at the hem, they seemingly peaked through on trousers also sporting knots of fabric. Blazers were ripped at the rear and pinned to reveal lace appliqués. Knitwear was restrained and constrictive, working like a straight jacket as one model tucked their arms into a sweater, but still felt comfortable for the everyday.
Per the brand, “What remains are the attire’s protective and technical features. But they are shredded, torn into pieces. Till the last hem of their function become the precious element turning into a memento.”