Conscious to the ever-evolving wardrobe essentials.
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Matthew M Williams brought the world to his doorsteps…well, nearly. Just a stone’s throw away from his neighborhood, the American designer staged the Givenchy show at the Hôtel des Invalides for Spring/Summer 2024. The location was the perfect set for a collection that returned to the roots of structure and silhouette. Long gone are the days of logomania as designers like Williams are reverting back to classic tailoring with a modern twist.
It is no coincidence that the show was staged at a historic military monument. In a post-show interview with press, Williams talked about his inspiration with the collection, noting his surroundings and his children’s British school apparel to spark his focus on a utilitarian and uniform aesthetic for this season. SS24 continues to explore the ever-evolving male archetype. Looking back at traditional Givenchy house motifs, Williams leans to the ideals that truly make the maison great. He said, “I think that’s what’s beautiful about Givenchy. It speaks to so many men and women, different ages. If you take all the products together, it could be for lots of different people.”
Over the years, the menswear silhouette has evolved, with the meaning of the classic gentleman’s wardrobe changing. With Givenchy, Williams is redefining the well-tailored silhouette. The designer calls it a “natural process,” bringing his known elements of streetwear to traditional codes. Recontextualizing the male uniform, the collection is filled with crested knits, sweatshirts, fitted polos and trousers paired with technical vests and wide-legged cargo pants. Functionality and adaptation remain themes of the collection as layering becomes a major component to what makes the pieces work. Taking traditional tropes like the Eisenhower military jacket to redefine the modern masculine blazer, it is evident that details are intricately and meticulously applied to tailoring. Accessories including technical bags in suede, nylon and webbing give a functional piece an elegant approach with its mixed materials.
Take a look above at the collection.