Featuring references to Islamic culture and, in contrast, Berlin’s lake scene.
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Serhat Işık and Benjamin Huseby have debuted GmbH‘s Spring 2024 menswear collection, offering a return to traditions and forms that underpin the designer label.
Having paused their Creative Director roles at Trussardi for the foreseeable, it seems the visionary duo has turned all its attention to its own brand. As such, reflections on their youth come to the fore, as drapes inspired by Işık’s family photos depicting him in a cape at a ritual and Huseby’s fascination with his mother’s wedding sari make multiple appearances for Spring 2024. For example, the way a drape falls on the body is emulated by the cold-shoulder asymmetry of a leather zipper-equipped vest top, while drapes appear more literally, attached to a ring that hooks around the neck and can be removed.
Hybrid details and authenticity continue to combine, as archways associated with Islamic architecture take shape on structured white blazers that fasten in the middle using GmbH’s signature hammer and sickle emblem, or elsewhere with crisscrossing underwear.
This is where GmbH’s Berlin sensibilities start to filter in, adding nuances of Queerness and sex. Rave-ready sunglasses meet thigh-high boots zipped up to the Gods, while asymmetrical and diagonal elements — e.g. the waistband of a pair of trousers or the shoulder of a tank — allude to one semi-undressed. Double zippers on the crotch of leather pants are equally kinky, subsequently rounding out the Spring 2024 collection.