Colm Dillane’s collection takes LV to the next level, with Made-to-Order and embellished items stealing the show.
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Summer is almost over, but fear not: the best season of dressing is yet to come. Indeed, Houses far and wide are dropping their Fall/Winter 2023 collections, and next up is Louis Vuitton (PARIS:MC.PA -1.87%) with its Colm Dillane-designed offering.
Presented in January at Paris Fashion Week by the KidSuper designer, the FW23 collection was essentially a stop-gap between Louis Vuitton relying on its design team and appointing Pharrell to take over the House, following Virgil Abloh‘s death. Who else could carry the torch other than Dillane — a name that’s catapulted into streetwear, luxury, and hypebeast culture in a way few (like Virgil) have.
Dillane’s work was, ultimately, a very heightened version of what he does at KidSuper. Abstract faces were formed across panelwork and patchwork, subsequently creating the very sculpture of a jacket, a pair of trousers, a bags, a shirt, and so on.
However, there are a number of standout items from the FW23 collection, and they include: a $34,000 USD Made-to-Order (MTO) Embroidered Varsity Blouson which is hand-beaded with crystals; the MTO Embroidered Monogram Denim Overshirt and matching Baggy Denim Pants sporting all-over hand-applied crystals detailing the House’s signature Monogram motif, coming in at $22,400 USD and $17,700 USD respectively; and the $11,200 USD Shearling Down Blouson, which is decorated with VVN leather straps and closures that are inspired by the interior of the Louis Vuitton Trunk, a key holder-style puller on the zip closure and a nametag on the left sleeve.
Elsewhere, we find a shearling Keepall Bandoulière 50 retailing for $11,400 USD, matching the aforementioned jacket, the frankly incredible $46,000 USD Patchworked Oversized Hooded Blouson that is surreal in nature but in fact is made up of House signatures (notice “The Vuittons” rock tee poster), and the $31,000 USD Keepall Clutch Blown Up 25 — a particularly special piece, as it’s made entirely from palladium-toned metal which takes 18 hours to craft, and is lined in leather.
It’s a collection of monumental items — seldom is there something that feels “basic.” For example, more “affordable” items like a soft handle trunk are superimposed with an LV Trunk and apple print, the Courrier Lozine Carre Gauche at $67,500 USD feels utterly, bonkers-level unnecessary, an MTO patchwork face-structured leather jacket explores the House’s utmost craftsmanship, and sunglasses are out of this world, appearing as a shield held in place by a monogrammed metal plinth