Channel your inner ’80s Italian DJ promoter.
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Martine Rose reached new heights with her Pitti Uomo 103 takeover, where the Londoner presented her Fall/Winter 2023 co-ed collection to her biggest crowd to date. It didn’t disappoint (then, why would it, it’s everybody’s favorite, Martine Rose), serving up a combination of British-isms on an Italian grand tour.
Speaking exclusively to guestcn, Rose said: “I really wanted to pay homage to Italy’s Cosmic scene of the ’70s and ’80s, Italo house that blew up in Europe and influenced dancefloors all over the world.” Elsewhere, touching on the collection itself, she added, “There’s always an element of sex. Sex is what pulls us all together. It’s DJs. It’s club promoters. It’s sexy, very sexy. Sexiness presents itself in all forms, it presents itself in shyness, extroversion, overconfidence, and arrogance. There’s a sexiness in their attitude, in what they wear. Confidence is also sexy.”
Now, you can feel confident, and in turn very sexy, thanks to the release of the Fall/Winter 2023 collection. We’ve already had Martine Rose’s latest range of Nike Shox MR4 sneaker-mules, which coincided with a larger capsule collection fronted by the likes of Ruby Wax, and of course, since the show, the designer has also presented us with the first of her Clarks collection from her SS24 show in London, and a Stüssy collaboration. Safe to say, Rose has been keeping busy — and with FW23, she shows no signs of slowing down.
The collection is fitted with plenty of quintessential Rose touches. Denim is rife, coming as a zip-off skirt with a new noughties-inspired fit, finish, and wash, while signature twist-seam jeans are found in an acidic overdyed yellow hue, complete with all of the designer’s official branding.
Newness comes from a fringed black shirt, combining Western fringed detailing on the chest (which is sexy) with the more obviously sexy use of sheer paneling, which serves as the base for velour polka dots. The designer’s classic shirt is reimagined with a metallic ruby red base and monstrous drawings all over it, while a sparkling lurex shirt is yet another twist to Rose’s essentials.
Elsewhere, we find Martine Rose Sport growing into an avant-garde grass-printed football top with “DISOBEY” logos on it, more sporting undertones with a paneled T-shirt, and a badge made from 100% 14k gold plated silver reading “A WOMAN’S PLACE IS EVERY PLACE,” made in collaboration with LL,LLC no less.
“EROS” (Rose jumbled-up) nods to the Italian influences and appears across T-shirts and ribbed turtlenecks, while irreverent graphics get their moment as expected, also on an array of tees, socks, and more.