With floral-flooded silhouettes, utilitarian design details and an abundance of cross-generational references.
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Finnish designer Rolf Ekroth often begins his creative process with reminiscence. Where previous collections were galvanized by his summer camp memories and his military service in Finland, the designer’s Spring/Summer 2024 range, presented during Copenhagen Fashion Week on Tuesday, facilitates introspection through the notion of “missing.”
At the corner of Ekroth’s own yearning for his ’90s youth, his parents’ stories of the transformational ’60s and his grandparents’ memories of a bygone era, the collection finds the beauty in all things missed — and views them through rose-colored glasses.
The concept of these floral-tinted lenses permeates the range, with a meticulous rose motif that repeats itself on prints and in details throughout. The illustration offers a reliable link for the collection’s various references, which span from the popular video game Zelda to a 1930s Scandinavian woman’s field-toiling elegance. Across them all, three distinct, hand-painted floral patterns bloom, with pastel finishes borrowed from Ekroth’s childhood.
In tribute to the generations of hardworking countryside people, utilitarianism takes a sizable stake in the collection, too. Aprons and workwear dresses meet pocket-packed outerwear and function-first leather jackets, while Ekroth’s classic friendship bracelets become mini alpha-woven pendants, appearing across garments in a nod to traditional Nordic handicrafts.
Ekroth’s quintessential oversized jacket remains a collection centerpiece, with a vintage-inspired silhouette evocative of hunting wares passed through several generations. The design’s interior, however, is good as new, comprising a warm flannel lining, roomy pockets and sturdy cotton.
Overall, the collection stylistically makes sense of Ekroth’s cross-generational sources to produce a line that embodies both him and those that came before him — all in pursuit of nostalgia.