Alleging “systematic racism” in a resignation letter seen by ‘BoF.’
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Following rumored reports that Tremaine Emory has stepped away from streetwear giant Supreme, the news has now been confirmed by Business of Fashion. Emory exits the brand after a year and a half as its creative director over allegations that “systematic racism was at play within the structure of Supreme,” in a letter seen by the publication. A Supreme representative confirmed Emory’s departure.
Emory was Supreme’s first-ever creative director. The appointment was a major move after Supreme was acquired by North Face-owner VF Corp back in 2020. According to the resignation letter seen by BoF, Emory’s decision to leave was due to senior management’s “inability to communicate” with him why the “cancellation” of a collaboration with major Black American artist Arthur Jafa occurred. Emory also claims that they were unable to give him “full visibility for the reasons behind it.” He added, “This caused me a great amount of distress as well as the belief that systematic racism was at play within the structure of Supreme.” In response to this claim, Supreme said that the collaboration has not been canceled, though it has yet to be released.
In an official statement shared to BoF from Supreme, the company responds, “While we take these concerns seriously, we strongly disagree with Tremaine’s characterisation of our company and the handling of the Arthur Jafa project, which has not been cancelled. This was the first time in 30 years where the company brought in a creative director. We are disappointed it did not work out with Tremaine and wish him the best of luck going forward.”
The streetwear polymath and Denim Tears founder’s departure comes at a time when Supreme sales have been declining. By March 2023, the brand generated revenues of $523.1 million USD in the year, down from $561.5 million USD the year before. Supreme was founded in 1994 and started in a single store in New York. It has now expanded to physical outposts in Milan, Berlin, Paris, Chicago, Los Angeles, Tokyo and Seoul. Emory has yet to make an official statement about his departure from Supreme.