Seeing Michael Stewart’s Standing Ground evolve his slithering womenswear while Johanna Parv challenged sportswear ideals and Olly Shinder made his runway debut.
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Lulu Kennedy‘s Fashion East has nurtured the next generation of British talent since the year 2000, giving a platform to emerging designers looking to make their mark. For Spring/Summer 2024, Fashion East welcomed newcomer Olly Shinder, seeing Michael Stewart’s Standing Ground and Johanna Parv return for another season.
First up was Olly Shinder, the London-based designer making a name for himself through menswear uniforms informed by military motifs and techno rave scenes. Shinder’s Fashion East debut was inspired by the screen-focused world we live in, breaking the silence at Yeomanry House with digitally enhanced tunes mixed by Wolfgang Tillmans. British queer culture was brought forward through bare-chested men with broad physiques in open-zipped mesh tees and patterned gingham shirts. Studded shorts and low-slung tank tops were strapped with metal chest tubbing, while workwear-inspired coveralls, checkered backpacks, and construction-style outerwear opened new realms for Shinder.
Michael Stewart presented his third collection under the Fashion East umbrella, reflecting his Irish heritage across slithering dresses cemented like stonework. SS24 continued to evolve Standing Ground’s striking identity, looking into the world’s natural development through fossiled silhouettes. The first look was crafted in oceanic light blue, featuring double-layered outlines with beaded skirt ornamentation. Ruffled edges inserted frozen movement with a delicate aura, while others were tugged at the waist and secured with anatomical tubing.
Finally, Johanna Parv challenged common sportswear by reimagining flexible fabrics for empowered women everywhere. The garments are built for fast-paced lifestyles, setting a new standard for designers across the board. Pop-collared shirting received slashed shoulders that revealed the skin beneath, while technical fabrics were tumbled at the waist and complemented by single-shouldered bags. Form-fitting sports jackets were elevated in free-flowing shapes, draping high-tech skirts over skintight bicycle shorts. Parv delivered sheer button-downs with elongated straps that alter their natural shape, while light blue versions donned integrated accessories that can never be left behind.