Marking the label’s first show in Paris.
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“This season, we want our work to speak for itself. Love, The Peter Do Team,” read a release from Peter Do for the Spring/Summer 2024 season. Taking the stage in Paris Fashion Week, the new collection from the designer’s eponymous label did just that.
Since his debut runway show for the Spring/Summer 2022 season, Peter Do has been cutting his teeth in New York City, which is appropriate given his galvanization of the NYFW calendar since he first appeared on the roster. But as Peter Do has gained international attention for both his eponymous label and his new responsibilities as creative director at Helmet Lang, it is of no surprise that the designer set his sights on Paris – further building his universe of contemporary sophistication.
For his debut Paris Fashion Week show, Peter Do sent his signature focus on sartorial elegance down the runway. But even though tailoring remains a brand focus, each season casts the style in new cuts, details and silhouettes – offering an ever-expanding view of sensuality and class. Yet again, the color palette was muted – centering only white, black, gray, camel and pops of crimson. But the intention here is to make the viewer focus on the clothes, which was echoed by the one-line release. Do’s vision of simple regality emerged via a play of lines, fabrics and minimalist color-blocked stylings.
Whether it be a chiffon blouse, tailored silk trousers or even ribbed knitwear, pieces were largely constructed in color-block two-hue arrangments. But there was no exact science to it. The proportions sometimes veered 60% one shade and 40% the other. Other times the garment may have been largely 80% white, with just a 20% touch of black for contrast. As far as silhouettes, Do offered up both form-fitting pieces, decadently relaxed yet still refined trousers and waist-cinching blazers. Clearly, his vision of refinement focuses more on how the clothes complement the body. They don’t have to just be tight or just baggy. Do understands balance and that’s a large part of what makes his designs continuously elegant.