Marking Peter Hawking’s debut as creative director.
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Since Tom Ford launched his eponymous label in 2005, the brand has been known for its appetite for attractively chic, yet adult ensembles. But even before 2005, what built Ford’s signature styling was his decade tenure at Gucci from 1994 to 2004, where the Texas-born designer presented arguably the most sexy era the Italian house has ever seen, which of course became a huge success. But in April of this year when Tom Ford announced his departure from his label, questions began to circulate about how the brand’s legacy would carry on. In comes Peter Hawkings who just made his collection debut as Tom Ford’s new creative director for the Spring/Summer 2024 season and without question it is a return to form.
Whether intentionally or not, Hawking’s first for the American label served, in part, as a tribute to the design prowess of Tom Ford. Gracing the runway during Milan Fashion Week, the collection harbored the sexily sleek core that is not only a hallmark of the brand but also what made Tom Ford a design maverick in the fashion space. Full of character, the ensembles made magic with fabrics like silk, cotton, leather and wool. But beyond the fabrics and their sophisticatedly time-mobile constructions is the attention to contoured silhouettes.
Although Ford was never afraid to show a little skin, his affinity for sexy dressing was not defined by it. He played with it but never gave in. Instead, a large part of the allure of his designs is the attention to tailoring constructions. It makes the wearer look intentional about how they dress and style their wardrobe. It’s irrefutably mature, yet still with a youthful edge. That’s how Tom Ford captured sexy. That’s how Hawkings is continuing the legacy.
Suiting emerged as a standout category through its arsenal of pinstriped, solid color and glistening form-fitting textures – appearing in black, cream, champagne, light pink, flamingo pink, merlot, turquoise, gold and lavender. Beyond this, an eye-catching crocodile fabric found its way to structured coats, jackets and skirts, while fringe-like materials and feathers danced with select midi dresses. No matter the category, the arsenal of 57 looks was heavily Tom Ford-coded – as it should be.