House leader Satoshi Kondo payed tribute to the late designer’s Spring/Summer 1998 collection at Paris Fashion Week.
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Japanese designer Issey Miyake founded his namesake label in 1971, leaving behind a heroic legacy after passing last year. Miyake’s signature pleats became his undeniable signature, acting as the main celebration for Spring/Summer 2024.
House leader Satoshi Kondo transformed his runway into a zenful experience that relaxed attendees at every point, welcoming them with humanmade bird sounds blown by local performers. They broke out in poetic dance moves to mark commencement, taking over the rectangular venue while models strolled through.
SS24 recalled Miyake’s Spring/Summer 1998 collection, concealing models with shielding dresses and integrated face masks. Kondo’s modern interpretation was seen across draped ensembles that outlined the human figure before turning to unconventional suiting dipped in vibrant hues. These were pulled at the waist in asymmetry, expanding at the cuffs clung with tonal handbags. Sunsets ignited across gradient dresses that shined under the spotlight, while monstrous blazers were structured and layered to perfection.
The brand’s pleated fabrics enhanced clocked dresses with tonal shawls, which succeeded semi-translucent suiting, twisted tops, and breaded headgear. Issey Miyake also debuted its first New Balance collaboration on the runway, seeing a vintage-styled low-top silhouette receive exposed foam accents, enlarged “N” symbolism, and blue-tinted sole units in black and white colorways.
Issey Miyake’s SS24 collection is in a realm of its own, merging fantasy and reality into a perfectly-executed offering that walked on sculptural lines.