John Galliano just has a way with clothes.

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With each passing year in fashion, it seems as if we get further and further away from designs and collections that make us feel something. I’m talking about a prolonged feeling of excitement, awe and romance that leaves viewers talking about the pieces for years to come, not the rapid-fire moments a large part of fashion has succumbed to. But John Galliano stands tall in being one of the remaining, seasoned greats in fashion as his commitment to creation never wanes. Instead, it ages like wine just getting better with time. If Galliano is a winemaker, then his new 2024 Artisanal Collection for Maison Margiela is a vintage Château d’Yquem as its elegantly refined taste and touch of history remind us of the art of dressing.
Revealed during Paris Couture Week, the new artisanal collection embarks on a deeper journey of personal expression. Irrefutably theatrical, the runway show opened with a dramatic group music number before models cascaded onto the foggy nighttime cityscape runway before maturing interior parlor rooms. But even in its excellence, the theatrical atmosphere was just the appetizer. The main course came from the assortment of ensembles that showcased a poetic balance of time, light and dark.
The seduction of dressing came alive through bodycon corsets and cinchers, wood and porcelain- breastplates, draped tulle and silk organza dresses, wool crêpe tailoring with an unfinished edge, abstract lace blouses, featherlight jackets, milletrage-constructed coats and more. No technique was spared as Galliano imparted a tasteful exhibition of sculpture, form and texture. But what elevates the wardrobe even more are subtle sun-bleached, tobacco-stained and moon-faded details that reveal the inner character. The character that makes our clothes dually personal and emotional.