Staged at the Opéra Garnier with “Fade to Grey” by Visage to set the narrative.
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Thom Browne presented his debut Haute Couture collection in Paris for Fall/Winter 2023. Staged at the Opéra Garnier, Thom Browne brought the drama to the theater in various shades of grey, focusing on silhouette and movement in all its pieces.
For one night only, the inaugural collection brings the classic American sports-infused aesthetic to couture. Entering into the opera, attendees are greeted by 2000 two-dimensional onlookers in the staple grey Thom Browne uniform, filling the auditorium. Thom Browne’s entrance into Paris haute couture saw audiences take a seat on the stage, looking out to the auditorium completely populated by black and white cut-out illustrations that bore a great resemblance to the designer himself.
Wanting to represent American fashion at haut couture week, the show was set to Visage’s “Fade to Grey” track, setting the tone for the rest of the collection. Taking the stage first, Alek Welk walks up to the stage wearing the label’s classic grey jacket and kilt combination. She sits atop a pile of grey luggage for the remainder of the show as the rest of the collection is shown around her. A multitude of iterations of the Thom Browne grey suits and coats in in narrow silhouettes take the stage. Exaggerated shapes highlighted by dramatic a-lines and iterations of the tweed, pinstripe and textures in various shades of grey take over the show. Patchwork checks, short suits and coats were embroidered with silver and gold sequined stripes. Feathered bodysuits and 3D clouds are woven into suits for added texture.
Aquatic motifs materialize on canvassed coats and tailoring. Full getups see iconography of crustaceans, anchors, lighthouses and nautical ropes. mermaids in gold bullion scales and a cluster of starfish are memorable graphics imprinted by sequins and beads. Tortoiseshell platform heels are walked across the platform alongside oversized Mr. Thom and hector bags and new Bermuda bags. While silhouettes were repetitive, Thom Browne continues to bring his American narrative through drama and performance to Paris haut couture.